NewStats: 3,263,488 , 8,180,307 topics. Date: Friday, 06 June 2025 at 08:34 AM x1f2d

amicdan:
Boss can I see picture?

Model number is FC260SH.

SourYoghurt:
please guy, what's your experience with Thermocool Inverter Freezers, Does it freeze and ice liquid like conventional freezers when used with solar.

My current freezer, barely freezer things probably because it's older.

Please, I need your guidance.

Idk about Thermocool but I have a 198L Hisense that draws just 110w and performs excellently so far, touch wood.

achorladey:


When you guys read, learn to understand what was posted.

I know what I am talking about in the first place. Read my first post above. I already know the tvs under discussion are OLED Tvs. I stated it clearly so I know the field well enough. That they are Oled tv does not mean is a means to rip people off. Not all the OLED comes with same specs and you cannot inflate the price of 48 inches up to the price of 55 or 65 inches because it is simply an Oled tv.

Except you can. It's a C2, so a three year old model.

G>C>B>A. For example a 55" G3 (two years old model) costs like 1.3m.

For the same 700k, if you want to buy a 55" LG OLED, you'd need to settle for a C9 (6 years old).

OLED TVs are the most expensive TVs around.

bassdow:
When we get to the Alpha stage of such battery Chemistry, another round of people would come to talk down on all previous battery chemistry as being rubbish and not worth it. They would disRegard the issues with the Salt based battery, and focus on only the Good sides of it

Logic dictates that if it becomes more popular than Lifepo4, it's because of the advantages (price, environmental factors, etc) it offers. So I see no reason why lifepo4 shouldn't be considered inferior to sodium batteries if it actually is.

Technological advancements are supposed to be improvements after all.

mctfopt:


These batteries full AliExpress. Surprise MKBHD is just seeing it.

Prohibitively expensive, unfortunately. Cheapest is $20 after shipping. For things like remote controls, you're better off buying versions with solar s (cheaper than the batteries sef) if available.

ask4bk:

What do you call "misuse"?
They hit it with a hammer or what?
Or is the misuse that they just use heavy loads not meant for HF inverters and they fail in less than 2 years? If its the latter, then what was earlier said was correct.
If none of this, then in what way do they "misuse" it?

I'm honestly trying to learn

The working principle of an inverter is hardly some mechanically strenuous process. The electrical energy is already there, all inverters really do is modify the sine waveform from DC to AC. It's not rocket science.

You're not dealing with things like friction, no moving parts (outside of the fans) or anything. Just don't overload your inverter, or give it excess voltage or high current pulses to handle and it'll be fine. Also keep it ventilated so it doesn't overheat. It's not rocket science.

If an inverter fails even with all of that, it's just down to poor machining and factory defects, which can happen to every single piece of engineering, even your darling LF inverters.

You talk about surge like it's some special thing when in reality surge is only relevant relative to the capacity of the inverter.

BigDickProblems:
Good morning Bosses

I have an interesting question. Can I remove the battery of my Lontor rechargeable fan completely and just use the fan like that, via the AC cable? Like, I don’t need the battery bank cos I believe it draws more power. Will the fan still work without the battery connected? Has anyone tried it b4?

Thanks in anticipation

Yes, you can.

Elizkid:
Does anyone have an experience with this?

How does one know if it’s genuine lifepo4 battery, as I don’t know if Cworth has a warehouse situated here.

The price is 276k.

Dam5reey1 is selling these for ~200k, I believe. him.

Mrreed:
You will also say that manual transmissions are better.

They buy a HF inverter from a rubbish brand, or grossly misuse it, then say HF inverters are cheap and unreliable when it inevitably fails.

ask4bk:
We Nigerians praising inverters like Growatt, SRNE etc which are cheap and high frequency shows our shallowness in good solar applications..

Growatt in the west is meant for the poor who can't afford solid inverters and for 80% s they die on them after 18 months or 2 years.

Manufacturers of inverters make it clear to s not to use high frequency inverters for heavy loads. They are not meant for devices with inductive loads like fridge, freezer, pumps, AC. They are not meant for offgrid home applications when you know you'll use the loads. High frequency inverters (without transformers) are for light equipments like lightings, TV, phones, laptop, security cams etc. That's why they are Damn cheaper than low frequency ones. There components are not meant to handle heat for long.

But for us, we will use them with AC, pump, freezer etc and since it's working (of course it'll work), we claim they are the best. But they won't last on the long run.

A low frequency felicity inverter is multiple times better than your highest brand (Deye, Growatt, Tesla) high frequency inverter for offgrid use with heavy loads.

If you are going for offgrid, spend the extra money and get yourself a low frequency transformer based inverter. They are made to withstand heat, dust, heavy loads and harsh environments.

If you need inverter for your office, farm or home, for just light, laptop, TV, printer etc. No need to go for low frequency. Go then for high frequency inverters and save cost

Don't try to present your opinions as facts.

favouredbymercy:


Since no single device can output the said current, one wont need such guage of wire since multiple charge devices would be involved, and therefore multiple cables as well.

Completely failed to for that. But yeah, absolutely, and just another reason why they're not popular.

You'd effectively need at least two charge controllers.

Dam5reey1:


Demand is low. And to properly charge 24V 17kwh you need X 2 of the charging current compared to 48V. I push as much as 110A at 48V to charge my 15kwh.

So 200A to charge if its 24V

48V is just ideal. Once you cross 10kwh

Yeah, exactly. This batteries can easily charge at 300A, and I'm not even sure you can find a cable to handle that on the regular market. Effectively 150mm+.

It's still good that people have the option now, though.

Valto:
Valtech Energy new model batteries.
24v 15kwh
24v 17kwh
48v 15kwh
48v 17kwh. all are real capacity and comes with brand new EVE / REPT cells, original CHINT 125A 2pole DC circuit breaker, 2pairs of 200A pure copper battery terminals, JK 200A 2A active balancer inverter Bluetooth bms with communication ports and JK 3.2inch display

Damn, I don't think anyone else is making 24v in these capacities.

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

Glad to see you back posting, man.

CuteMaro:

Hold up, how did you do 11h on lowest speed? I was only able to manage 5h30 minutes on lowest speed.

Na God dey run am

BigDickProblems:


This is cool.
Meaning your fan’s power consumption on low speed is around 8.5W/h.

I would assume that on full speed, your battery can chest it for about 3.6hours. But I can’t be sure since I have no idea your fan’s original power rating.

But on a second thought, you could actually build something like this for yourself—even better than this though.

Yep, fan draws under 10w on lowest speed, and about 30w on highest speed. I think 3h is probably the most it can last on the max speed.

adibo:


I actually saved some money, dats why I just wanted to do the switch now before bills will make the money disappear

Well, see how much you can get for your batteries first before buying the lithium.

BigDickProblems:


Thanks Bro.

Have you tested the run time and discharge on highest speed or something like that?

Tested on lowest speed. Lasted 11h3m. Voltage when it shut off was 9.7v.

LVD of 9.7v
HVD of 12.3v

Within spec for Li-ion, I believe. Experiment looks like a success. If this gives me 18 months of use, I'm a happy man.

omotoda:


Baba,I understand but how much energy does a charge controller consume at night?My PowMR charge controller is practically dead at night, only the display shows which in most cases wont even consume up to the idle consumption of most inverters

Regular LCD on a CC probably doesn't take more than 1w.

adibo:
Good morning all. I am back again. I have two Mercury tubular batteries which I installed around March last year. They are serving me very well and I have not experienced any day of darkness since I installed them, either morning or night, even during days of rainfall. My inverter is a 24v Mercury inverter.

However, with all the information I have been reading here, I am planning on switching to a Lithium battery. I don't want to spend up to a million naira on the battery upgrade because my load demand is not much but I also want to be future-proof with whatever I buy. I generally consume at most 300w continuously, which is my fridge, TV, fans, and bulbs.

I am thinking of buying a 3.6kwh lithium battery but my brother is advising that I go for a 5kwh battery which will be above a million naira.

My first question is: will the number of hours the 3.6kwh lithium battery last be much different from the current tubular batteries I have? How many hours am I likely to get from the 3.6kwh battery with a load of 300w? Is the upgrade from two tubular batteries to a 3.6kwh battery worth it?

Secondly, what will be your advice regarding the best brand to buy? From what I have seen, the options are buying from Mr Valto, or buying Cworth batteries or Haisic batteries. Which will be the most cost-effective and reliable option? Yes, I want a cheaper option but also an option that won't make me regret a few years later due to the performance of the battery

Sorry for the long message

With a load of 300w, you'll get about 10.5 hours from a 3.6kwh battery after factoring in conversion losses.

If your tubular batteries serve you right now, there's no need to upgrade. Use them till they start failing and switch to lithium then. Lithium has constantly been getting cheaper, so it could be much cheaper by then too. For example, a battery I bought for 860k a year ago can be found for under 600k now.

I don't recommend tubular to people deg a setup (because they're pretty terrible compared to lithium) but that doesn't mean everyone should throw away their tubular batteries.

BigDickProblems:


Thanks Bro.

Have you tested the run time and discharge on highest speed or something like that?

I am very curious to know what the results are.

I have this lontor table fan (pics attached) that doesn’t last beyond 2hours on full speed after a full charge with all the hype.

Just picked up the battery this afternoon. Will run all of those tests eventually.

The Lontor probably has a small battery. This li-ion pack is d as 8.4Ah, or 93Wh, which is pretty large for a fan. The fan came with a 7Ah battery in comparison.

Maybe check what battery is in the Lontor.

BigDickProblems:

Could you kindly show the picture ads from Jumia. Thanks.

CuteMaro:

Great. I always wondered if battery was overcharged as I don't have multimeter. Thank God for your test I now have peace of mind knowing it doesn't overcharge.

The only crude test I did was to check for increased temperature in either battery or wire.

Yeah, it doesn't overcharge. I checked voltages when the fan had stopped the charging animation.

Now I'll just run the battery down next and check voltages again to see what at what voltage it cuts off.

CuteMaro:

Got same. Mine is performing just great. I wonder if it's possible to get 2 for a parallel connection in order to increase run time.

You should be able to parallel them quite easily.

dollarnaira:


It should drain to 10.5v or lower.
Btw 11 to 12.6v speed is still fair if you are not the very sweaty type.

If you went further to run the fan directly to the battery, speed would be good.

Battery has been charged full by the fan. Sitting at 12.3v.

I bought the li-ion battery pack on Jumia as a replacement for the lead acid in my rechargeable fan btw.

Battery came in at 11.6v, which should be about 65% SoC in a 3S 18650 setup. Pins don't match so I just ripped off the pin on the battery and connected directed to the fan's pins. Works fine.

Discharge/charge behavior remains to be seen. And that's what concerns me most. After all, lead acid is effectively at 0% SoC at 11.5v while a 3S li-ion is still at like 50% at that voltage. Hopefully the fan's LVD doesn't Bleep me over. Will update.

Obnoxious2001:


This is not totally true.

If your pv is sufficient to run your load, it works as per design.

Not true for any practical use-case but ok.

Machiny:
can this work without battery?

Using an inverter without a battery of any sort is impractical in Nigeria.

What happens when sun suddenly goes down or there's cloud cover and your s can't supply the needed power instantaneously?

Inverters marketed as being usable without batteries are only valid in countries where grid supply is constant. So when any of the above happens, the inverter draws power from grid to fill up the gap.

Ahyjo:
Please I need suggestions on a 2.5 - 3kw hybrid inverter with a PV input voltage of at least 180V and max pv array of close to 2500?

Ahyjo:
Good afternoon all. Please help me out on this. My mum’s system is a 24V system with a pwm charger controller. She wants to improve her PV array to 1800watts (4 x 450W jinko s). What’s the best way to accommodate these? Is it through an MPPT charger controller or to change her inverter to another 24V hybrid that can also accommodate these s? Pls suggest with brand names, and if available for sale let me know the prices please for sellers in this forum.
And as a form of , my 17kwh Valto battery and 6kva growatt inverter are performing excellently so far.

If her inverter works fine, you can just buy something like this. Takes 2500w of PV in 24v.

Stormyweather:


Is it possible to get this setup with about 2m? I mean something that can carry the loads.

Then you have to go with a 24V setup.

Firman has a 3kw inverter with 5000w PV input for under 400k. Or you can buy one of the 4.2kw inverters on the market.

Battery from Mrreed is probably best value on the market these days. Haisic also sells a 7.2kwh lithium battery for ~800k, but it has no screen and you have to rely on your inverter for monitoring.

Figure out how much accessories and installation will cost you, and then put the remainder of your budget into s. You can survive with four 620w. Five would be better. Six best.

Stormyweather:
Hi gurus.

Someone gave me this bill.

What do you think?

Quotation For Four Batteries

1)hybrid inverter 5.5kva 24v =670,000
2)220 batteries 260k x 4 =1,040,000
3)12 300watt solar pannal 74,000 x 12=888,000
4)Solar cable 5600x20yard=112,000
6)Electrical accessories 30,000
7)Battery rack 28,000
Solar accessories 35,000
9)Workmanship 90,000
10)Transportation 65,000
Total =2,958,000

Load:

11.5hp inverter AC
1 inverter fridge
1 washing machine
2 laptops
1 TV
1 game console
1 DSTV
2 standing fan
1 iron
Some light bulbs

Terrible quote.

For one, we do not recommend tubular batteries on this thread anymore.

- Switch that inverter to a 5KW 48v one. Buy from Growatt or SRNE or Felicity. Same price.

- Buy a 5kwh 48v Lithium battery. You can buy from Valto here, or Deriy, or talk to Dam5reey1. Same price or even cheaper than what you've been quoted.

- Buy six 620w Jinko s from Fouani. 830k.

Solar cable you need is 6mm and they don't cost more than 4k per yard. That's 80k. Also no need for a battery rack with a lithium battery.

Buy all of these yourself. Let the installer buy the other accessories and you pay for installation. You should save yourself about 150k doing this and you'd have a significantly better setup.

Dam5reey1:


Shege promax.. my inverter is still with Sygnite.
I can't shout jare. i am guessing they have some batches with some defects.

Deye would rather not work than to work and blow up.

Oof. That's too bad.

Dam5reey1:
We are still delivering BIY projects.

Why did you switch from using Growatt to Deye?

stuffs2002:



What is special about LiFePO4 batteries that we all must not use?

Did you not read the part of my post where I mentioned I can handle batteries? I have built other battery types that are even more complex than LiFePO4 and I don't see any big deal in doing same thing with lithium

Na tubular ambassador, no worry.