NewStats: 3,263,671 , 8,180,967 topics. Date: Saturday, 07 June 2025 at 08:23 AM 5f1i5l

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

The deyri has jk bms, and the cworth has a different bms. So the first RPi with solar assistant is communicating with the JKbms of the deriy, the inverter and the victron smart shunt.

The second Orange Pi running SA is communicating with the cworth battery via CAN2.0, I couldn’t get cworth to communicate via rs485, it seems they use different communication protocols via rs485, but the CAN uses standard protocol.

Ok, now that clarifies things.

Your GUI looks great. Well done.

adibo:


Thanks for your input. Is the haisic 24v and does it have a smart bms? Also, which brands have 24v 5kwh batteries for less than a million?

Haisic has 24v 280ah for 800k but its not with smart BMS.Youc an talk to @valtoand @Mr reed to build a 5kw for you but with less than million naira , you can conveniently get a 7kw 24v with smart BMS from @MrReed.I dont know the current price for @valto

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

You are spot on with the first statement.

However, the victron smartshunt is more reliable when compared to the junktek, here are some reasons why:

The junktek drifts by 5Ah when you go through multiple cycles without a full charge, and sometimes even when discharging from a single full charge cycle.

The junktek also lacks communication ie VE.Direct, rs485, CAN and even rs232.

The junktek version that has a history chart (called trends in the victron app), always crashes when using the history chart.

The worst disadvantage is, when its fully disconnected from the battery terminals and reconnected (lets say you are adding a battery or modifying a connection), the junktek resets and loose all the Ah accumulative calculations.

The junkek is better in some aspects however:

Firstly it shows time to charge to full charge (victron only shows time to full discharge)

Secondly, it’s way cheaper and if gotten to be simply a battery shunt with no other smart features, it does 99 percent of what the victron does.

It comes with a screen that has a lovely GUI.

definitely then I'd go for junctek over others when it comes to economical and functionality

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

The rating of bi-facial is the expected STC rating, just like monofacials.

So if a monofacial is rated 615w its bi-facial counterpart is also rated 615w.

Bi-facials then have a ‘potential’ power gain on the rating.

For example, I have 6 x JA 605w bifacial s, they are rated to give me the 605w each, but I can get extra power of up to 653w each from bi-facial gains.

Here is my experience, I mounted it on a roof (regular angled roof), my max expected power at STC before bi-facial gains should be 6 x 605w =3,630 W. Then I can potentially get higher due to potential gain.

I actually get up to 3897w with them, so 649.5w each for 605w rated. That means I constantly get the bi-facial gain while mounted on roof.

The main thing is that your roof should be refective (etc aluminium) and from a white colour to like a light shade of gray etc, those are the roof colours that’s can reflect sunlight on the back of the s. Black roofs might not work because black and darker colours absorb light and do not easily reflect.

See the attached picture, the first bar on the chart, notice the Pmax 3897w.

thank you for the education. 🙏

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

The deyri has jk bms, and the cworth has a different bms. So the first RPi with solar assistant is communicating with the JKbms of the deriy, the inverter and the victron smart shunt.

The second Orange Pi running SA is communicating with the cworth battery via CAN2.0, I couldn’t get cworth to communicate via rs485, it seems they use different communication protocols via rs485, but the CAN uses standard protocol.

Please which cable did you use for the cworth communication. I was only able to connect mine via voltronic lib r485 but the reading is not accurate

Valtech Energy new model batteries.
24v 15kwh
24v 17kwh
48v 15kwh
48v 17kwh. all are real capacity and comes with brand new EVE / REPT cells, original CHINT 125A 2pole DC circuit breaker, 2pairs of 200A pure copper battery terminals, JK 200A 2A active balancer inverter Bluetooth bms with communication ports and JK 3.2inch display

pics..

Valto:
Valtech Energy new model batteries.
24v 15kwh
24v 17kwh
48v 15kwh
48v 17kwh. all are real capacity and comes with brand new EVE / REPT cells, original CHINT 125A 2pole DC circuit breaker, 2pairs of 200A pure copper battery terminals, JK 200A 2A active balancer inverter Bluetooth bms with communication ports and JK 3.2inch display

Damn, I don't think anyone else is making 24v in these capacities.

oluwapoju:

Please which cable did you use for the cworth communication. I was only able to connect mine via voltronic lib r485 but the reading is not accurate

Hi,

CAN to USB

The disadvantage of using CAN is that it doesn’t show individual cell voltages or temperature, and it shows all paralleled batteries as one battery.

https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/can_self

HeavenlyBang:


Damn, I don't think anyone else is making 24v in these capacities.

Demand is low. And to properly charge 24V 17kwh you need X 2 of the charging current compared to 48V. I push as much as 110A at 48V to charge my 15kwh.

So 200A to charge if its 24V

48V is just ideal. Once you cross 10kwh

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

The rating of bi-facial is the expected STC rating, just like monofacials.

So if a monofacial is rated 615w its bi-facial counterpart is also rated 615w.

Bi-facials then have a ‘potential’ power gain on the rating.

For example, I have 6 x JA 605w bifacial s, they are rated to give me the 605w each, but I can get extra power of up to 653w each from bi-facial gains.

Here is my experience, I mounted it on a roof (regular angled roof), my max expected power at STC before bi-facial gains should be 6 x 605w =3,630 W. Then I can potentially get higher due to potential gain.

I actually get up to 3897w with them, so 649.5w each for 605w rated. That means I constantly get the bi-facial gain while mounted on roof.

The main thing is that your roof should be refective (etc aluminium) and from a white colour to like a light shade of gray etc, those are the roof colours that’s can reflect sunlight on the back of the s. Black roofs might not work because black and darker colours absorb light and do not easily reflect.

See the attached picture, the first bar on the chart, notice the Pmax 3897w.

would you advice the bifacial over the mono with your analysis, since they are same price? Many have talked down on the bifacial

Dam5reey1:


Demand is low. And to properly charge 24V 17kwh you need X 2 of the charging current compared to 48V. I push as much as 110A at 48V to charge my 15kwh.

So 200A to charge if its 24V

48V is just ideal. Once you cross 10kwh

Yeah, exactly. This batteries can easily charge at 300A, and I'm not even sure you can find a cable to handle that on the regular market. Effectively 150mm+.

It's still good that people have the option now, though.

Machiny:
would you advice the bifacial over the mono with your analysis, since they are same price? Many have talked down on the bifacial

Hi,

Like I said, it depends on the colour and material of your roof, if its aluminium and light coloured ie white to light grey colour range. Then you will most likely get bifacial gains.

The disadvantage is the weight, they are heavier than mono-facial of same rating.

Also, , all of this depends on the quality of the mppt controller. You need a good charge controller (stand alone or inbuilt) to lock on to the max power point of these s in order to benefit from its max yield.

HeavenlyBang:


Yeah, exactly. This batteries can easily charge at 300A, and I'm not even sure you can find a cable to handle that on the regular market. Effectively 150mm+.

It's still good that people have the option now, though.

Since no single device can output the said current, one wont need such guage of wire since multiple charge devices would be involved, and therefore multiple cables as well.

favouredbymercy:


Since no single device can output the said current, one wont need such guage of wire since multiple charge devices would be involved, and therefore multiple cables as well.

Completely failed to for that. But yeah, absolutely, and just another reason why they're not popular.

You'd effectively need at least two charge controllers.

favouredbymercy:


Since no single device can output the said current, one wont need such guage of wire since multiple charge devices would be involved, and therefore multiple cables as well.

Hi,

If its one battery the cable connected to the battery will take all the current irrespective of using multiple charge controllers or not.

If its multiple batteries, then the current will be shared from the common busbar.

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

The rating of bi-facial is the expected STC rating, just like monofacials.

So if a monofacial is rated 615w its bi-facial counterpart is also rated 615w.

Bi-facials then have a ‘potential’ power gain on the rating.

For example, I have 6 x JA 605w bifacial s, they are rated to give me the 605w each, but I can get extra power of up to 653w each from bi-facial gains.

Here is my experience, I mounted it on a roof (regular angled roof), my max expected power at STC before bi-facial gains should be 6 x 605w =3,630 W. Then I can potentially get higher due to potential gain.

I actually get up to 3897w with them, so 649.5w each for 605w rated. That means I constantly get the bi-facial gain while mounted on roof.

The main thing is that your roof should be refective (etc aluminium) and from a white colour to like a light shade of gray etc, those are the roof colours that’s can reflect sunlight on the back of the s. Black roofs might not work because black and darker colours absorb light and do not easily reflect.

See the attached picture, the first bar on the chart, notice the Pmax 3897w.

Thank you for taking out time to actually prove the benefits of bifacial s even when mounted on a rooftop, most people here have been against it without actually ing their claims.

They are very quick to discourage anyone from considering a Bifacial s even when there is no longer a price difference between Bifacial and Monofacial s.

Hi,

From my experience, here is the cheat code to the simplest and easiest technique to size a perfect off grid solar ess system.

1. Calculate on average how much energy you use daily eg 15kWh ie 15 units of grid (NEPA) light

2. Get a battery that is equal in capacity to your daily average energy consumption eg 14 - 15kWh

3. Then size with pv that is half or close to half the battery storage capacity eg 7 - 7.5kW s

4. Then get an inverter that can carry the max total load power during your daily consumption cycle (ie what is the max power you use when all your needed devices are turned on).

So let’s assume with your major appliances turned on you consume a max of 3kW (maybe when microwaving food, boiling water etc). You then get an inverter that is minimum 1.3 x the max power, so in this case a minimum of 1.3 x 3kW power = 3.9kW. So a 4kW and above inverter is good.

Example: following the above, for a 15kW average daily total consumption, you will get a 14-15kWh battery, 7-7.5kW s and a 4 - 5kW inverter.

If you size your system with this method, you will be 100 percent off grid and will have two (2) days of autonomy i.e if rain falls and there is poor yield, your battery will still last you the night of poor yield (2 nights if you add the night before poor yield day).

What if your load demand then increases?

It’s simple if divide the new average daily load by the former average load and multiply the answer by every part of you off grid system.

Eg, if you now consume average of 20kW daily

20kW (new) / 15kW (old) = 1.33

So 1.33 x 15kWh (former battery capacity) = 20kWh for new total battery capacity

1.33 x 7.5kW s = 10kW for total pv

1.33 x 4kW inverter = 5.3 so lets say 5.5 - 6kW inverter

So 20kWh total battery, 10kW total pv and 5.5 - 6kW inverter is what you need you system rating to be in order to accommodate the new average daily load of 20kW.

Conclusion:

This is my personal, practical and researched method. Anytime you use it on the field or personally, , knowledge shared is the best reward for knowledge that was gained.

GloryJoyeux:
Hi,

From my experience, here is the cheat code to the simplest and easiest technique to size a perfect off grid solar ess system.

1. Calculate on average how much energy you use daily eg 15kWh ie 15 units of grid (NEPA) light

2. Get a battery that is equal in capacity to your daily average energy consumption eg 14 - 15kWh

3. Then size with pv that is half or close to half the battery storage capacity eg 7 - 7.5kW s

4. Then get an inverter that can carry the max total load power during your daily consumption cycle (ie what is the max power you use when all your needed devices are turned on).

So let’s assume with your major appliances turned on you consume a max of 3kW (maybe when microwaving food, boiling water etc). You then get an inverter that is minimum 1.3 x the max power, so in this case a minimum of 1.3 x 3kW power = 3.9kW. So a 4kW and above inverter is good.

Example: following the above, for a 15kW average daily total consumption, you will get a 14-15kWh battery, 7-7.5kW s and a 4 - 5kW inverter.

If you size your system with this method, you will be 100 percent off grid and will have two (2) days of autonomy i.e if rain falls and there is poor yield, your battery will still last you the night of poor yield (2 nights if you add the night before poor yield day).

What if your load demand then increases?

It’s simple if divide the new average daily load by the former average load and multiply the answer by every part of you off grid system.

Eg, if you now consume average of 20kW daily

20kW (new) / 15kW (old) = 1.33

So 1.33 x 15kWh (former battery capacity) = 20kWh for new total battery capacity

1.33 x 7.5kW s = 10kW for total pv

1.33 x 4kW inverter = 5.3 so lets say 5.5 - 6kW inverter

So 20kWh total battery, 10kW total pv and 5.5 - 6kW inverter is what you need you system rating to be in order to accommodate the new average daily load of 20kW.

Conclusion:

This is my personal, practical and researched method. Anytime you use it on the field or personally, , knowledge shared is the best reward for knowledge that was gained.

Why the 1.33 multiplication, u advised to get a 15kw battery when my consumption was 15kw daily, now that my consumption is 20kw, why not just get a 20kw battery like u first advised. Why involve 1.33. So if my current daily usage doubles from 15kw to 30kw, do i still do 15kw × 1.33. Is it not easier to just get a 30kw battery. Make me understand, because u dey sound like my maths teacher then wey dey make things hard....lol

GloryJoyeux:
Hi,

From my experience, here is the cheat code to the simplest and easiest technique to size a perfect off grid solar ess system.

1. Calculate on average how much energy you use daily eg 15kWh ie 15 units of grid (NEPA) light

2. Get a battery that is equal in capacity to your daily average energy consumption eg 14 - 15kWh

3. Then size with pv that is half or close to half the battery storage capacity eg 7 - 7.5kW s

4. Then get an inverter that can carry the max total load power during your daily consumption cycle (ie what is the max power you use when all your needed devices are turned on).

So let’s assume with your major appliances turned on you consume a max of 3kW (maybe when microwaving food, boiling water etc). You then get an inverter that is minimum 1.3 x the max power, so in this case a minimum of 1.3 x 3kW power = 3.9kW. So a 4kW and above inverter is good.

Example: following the above, for a 15kW average daily total consumption, you will get a 14-15kWh battery, 7-7.5kW s and a 4 - 5kW inverter.

If you size your system with this method, you will be 100 percent off grid and will have two (2) days of autonomy i.e if rain falls and there is poor yield, your battery will still last you the night of poor yield (2 nights if you add the night before poor yield day).

What if your load demand then increases?

It’s simple if divide the new average daily load by the former average load and multiply the answer by every part of you off grid system.

Eg, if you now consume average of 20kW daily

20kW (new) / 15kW (old) = 1.33

So 1.33 x 15kWh (former battery capacity) = 20kWh for new total battery capacity

1.33 x 7.5kW s = 10kW for total pv

1.33 x 4kW inverter = 5.3 so lets say 5.5 - 6kW inverter

So 20kWh total battery, 10kW total pv and 5.5 - 6kW inverter is what you need you system rating to be in order to accommodate the new average daily load of 20kW.

Conclusion:

This is my personal, practical and researched method. Anytime you use it on the field or personally, , knowledge shared is the best reward for knowledge that was gained.

I'd give this 1 million likes if it were possible.

This is true knowledge. I'm going to screenshot this.

kristien4:
Why the 1.33 multiplication, u advised to get a 15kw battery when my consumption was 15kw daily, now that my consumption is 20kw, why not just get a 20kw battery like u first advised. Why involve 1.33. So if my current daily usage doubles from 15kw to 30kw, do i still do 15kw × 1.33. Is it not easier to just get a 30kw battery. Make me understand, because u dey sound like my maths teacher then wey dey make things hard....lol

Hi,

Battery is easy just as you have stated, daily load in kW = battery capacity in kWh

You need the division to multiply the pv and the inverter.

Note that you can still get away without upgrading your inverter but its very likely that if your demand increases your peak power also increases.

Hope that clarified things.

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

Battery is easy just as you have stated, daily load in kW = battery capacity in kWh

You need the division to multiply the pv and the inverter.

Note that you can still get away without upgrading your inverter but its very likely that if your demand increases your peak power also increases.

Hope that clarified things.

Okay.Thanks

ManAdii:

Oga go and buy TBB. The inverter dy deliver, I no go lie give you. I don't know what the future holds but I don't see myself using transformerless inverter as of now.

Finally got the TBB 6kva 48v last week and so far so good, experience has been great

Penuelseun:
Finally got the TBB 6kva 48v last week and so far so good, experience has been great

TBB very very solid inverter , incredible low idle consumption

GloryJoyeux:
Hi,

From my experience, here is the cheat code to the simplest and easiest technique to size a perfect off grid solar ess system.

1. Calculate on average how much energy you use daily eg 15kWh ie 15 units of grid (NEPA) light

2. Get a battery that is equal in capacity to your daily average energy consumption eg 14 - 15kWh

3. Then size with pv that is half or close to half the battery storage capacity eg 7 - 7.5kW s

4. Then get an inverter that can carry the max total load power during your daily consumption cycle (ie what is the max power you use when all your needed devices are turned on).

So let’s assume with your major appliances turned on you consume a max of 3kW (maybe when microwaving food, boiling water etc). You then get an inverter that is minimum 1.3 x the max power, so in this case a minimum of 1.3 x 3kW power = 3.9kW. So a 4kW and above inverter is good.

Example: following the above, for a 15kW average daily total consumption, you will get a 14-15kWh battery, 7-7.5kW s and a 4 - 5kW inverter.

If you size your system with this method, you will be 100 percent off grid and will have two (2) days of autonomy i.e if rain falls and there is poor yield, your battery will still last you the night of poor yield (2 nights if you add the night before poor yield day).

What if your load demand then increases?

It’s simple if divide the new average daily load by the former average load and multiply the answer by every part of you off grid system.

Eg, if you now consume average of 20kW daily

20kW (new) / 15kW (old) = 1.33

So 1.33 x 15kWh (former battery capacity) = 20kWh for new total battery capacity

1.33 x 7.5kW s = 10kW for total pv

1.33 x 4kW inverter = 5.3 so lets say 5.5 - 6kW inverter

So 20kWh total battery, 10kW total pv and 5.5 - 6kW inverter is what you need you system rating to be in order to accommodate the new average daily load of 20kW.

Conclusion:

This is my personal, practical and researched method. Anytime you use it on the field or personally, , knowledge shared is the best reward for knowledge that was gained.

Thank you for this education, it is truly appreciated.
I want you to please, shed more light on the bolded parts of your Post.

From what l understand in your post, the Inverter is sized such that it is a minimum of 1.3 x Maximum daily Power Consumption.
If the above is true, using your example of a 15Kw, maximum daily Power consumption,
does it not mean that the size of the inverter should be 1.3 x 15Kw = 19.5 or 20KW Inverter will be appropriate.

but your analysis said 4kW Inverter.

In the additional Capacity example too, where max. daily Load increased to 20KW, the Inverter recommendation was 7KW Inverter (instead of 1.3 x 20KW = 26 (or 25KW) Inverter..

I already alluded this to mis-typing but wanted to be sure, by asking you directly, so l dont get confused.
Thank you.

Penuelseun:
Finally got the TBB 6kva 48v last week and so far so good, experience has been great

Welcome to the club bro. The inverter dy deliver like mad. I don't know why it's not getting attention like deye and others.

Meanwhile, I didn't see your wifi dongle installed in other for you to monitor remotely. Was it intentional?

Valto:
TBB very very solid inverter , incredible low idle consumption

Senior man you sabi the inverter. No lie here. Very very solid. I used the 1.2kva variant before upgrading to 3kw. It's very rugged. No fear of short circuit, lighting, reverse polarity, over/under voltage etc... it has all those protections. I have tested it.

mctfopt:


Nigerian electrician hates to ground a house.

It's appalling the level of no protection they put up while wiring the house.

87% of Nigerian electrician needs to go back to tech school for a one month intensive course on electrical protection.

Nothing makes me sad to see multiple houses without basic electrical earth and lightning protection.

Unfortunate reality

I made a post here yesterday and was banned for some reason. I’ve been a silent reader and follower of this thread, thanks to HeavenlyBang. Kudos to y'all!

The Haisic 8 kWh battery caught my attention based on the discussions here, so I decided to give it a try. My experience has been mixed. Bottom line: the unit I got might be faulty. It doesn’t charge above 26.8V, which gives me access to only about 60% of its capacity.

I'm in the process of returning it after a series of tests. I'm making this post to share my experience and advise anyone interested to pause and, if possible, have the unit fully tested before making a purchase.

I’ll update the thread as I make progress.

Update: After combining my inverter charger (30a), external 24v lithium battery charger (20a), and PV (under 10a, it's a raining day), I was able to fully charge the battery in under 6 hours. Now sitting pretty and 29.2v and floating back and forth.

Thank you.