NewStats: 3,263,829 , 8,181,550 topics. Date: Sunday, 08 June 2025 at 07:52 AM r5b48

Jefferyzz:
Put on the breaker. It should come on. At times, it won't display anything till it recognize input.

Thanks
I have not installed the s. I'll check it out when the s are installed.

fuckboys:
new felicity charge controllers dont draw power from the batteries only from your pv. youll have to connect it to pv to power it on

Ok thanks.
I'll check it After installation

omotoda:


Baba,I understand but how much energy does a charge controller consume at night?My PowMR charge controller is practically dead at night, only the display shows which in most cases wont even consume up to the idle consumption of most inverters

make I just dey observe this your comment with side eye.

fuckboys:
I don’t like that always on display on the powmr cc, It should have settings to turn off the light on the display.

🤣

Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

Welcome back.

Also in the image I ed earlier showing the custom HA gui, you might notice that 3,780w coming from s but only 2,480w going to load and battery is full. So you might think the inverter is grossly inefficient.

It was a bug in my coding but it has been corrected. The deye is over 95 percent efficient.

See the corrected code bug in the image below, over 95 percent efficiency.

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

Wow this is great 👏👏👏

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

Damn

BigDickProblems:


Thanks Bro.

Have you tested the run time and discharge on highest speed or something like that?

Tested on lowest speed. Lasted 11h3m. Voltage when it shut off was 9.7v.

LVD of 9.7v
HVD of 12.3v

Within spec for Li-ion, I believe. Experiment looks like a success. If this gives me 18 months of use, I'm a happy man.

HeavenlyBang:


Tested on lowest speed. Lasted 11h3m. Voltage when it shut off was 9.7v.

LVD of 9.7v
HVD of 12.3v

Within spec for Li-ion, I believe. Experiment looks like a success. If this gives me 18 months of use, I'm a happy man.

This is cool.
Meaning your fan’s power consumption on low speed is around 8.5W/h.

I would assume that on full speed, your battery can chest it for about 3.6hours. But I can’t be sure since I have no idea your fan’s original power rating.

But on a second thought, you could actually build something like this for yourself—even better than this though.

HeavenlyBang:


Tested on lowest speed. Lasted 11h3m. Voltage when it shut off was 9.7v.

LVD of 9.7v
HVD of 12.3v

Within spec for Li-ion, I believe. Experiment looks like a success. If this gives me 18 months of use, I'm a happy man.

Na one corner eye 👁️ I take Dey look you now, why 18 months Abi you want jaka before 18 months time 😆😆😆

HeavenlyBang:


With a load of 300w, you'll get about 10.5 hours from a 3.6kwh battery after factoring in conversion losses.

If your tubular batteries serve you right now, there's no need to upgrade. Use them till they start failing and switch to lithium then. Lithium has constantly been getting cheaper, so it could be much cheaper by then too. For example, a battery I bought for 860k a year ago can be found for under 600k now.

I don't recommend tubular to people deg a setup (because they're pretty terrible compared to lithium) but that doesn't mean everyone should throw away their tubular batteries.

I actually saved some money, dats why I just wanted to do the switch now before bills will make the money disappear

fuckboys:
Considering 50% DoD on tubular batteries, your 2 tubular batteries combined is just 2.6kwh So a 3.6kwh lithium battery is an upgrade from your current backup.

But you said the tubular still serves you very well so I don't see a need for an upgrade, you can keep it till it doesn't serve anymore then a 5kwh battery. Now that's a perfect upgrade.

Thanks a lot, just considering doing the switch now that I have some money saved for that purpose

Obnoxious2001:


If it serves you, use it then upgrade after they have served their useful life.


Unless you have another location to use the tubular battery, I see no reason you should be upgrading it

Also, considering the fact that it may be better to sell off my tubular batteries now that they are still working well, instead of using them up

omotoda:


I believe the suggestions of @heavenlybang and @fuckboys are very much valid.However, Mercury tubular batteries have been known to be very unreliable.You have been enjoying it so far because of you small load.You can get Haisic 7.1kw for 800k, or same 7.1kw with smart bms from @Mrreed for 840k.Your options are actually very wide with the funds available.There are also a couple of 5kw less than N1M naira in the market

Thanks for your input. Is the haisic 24v and does it have a smart bms? Also, which brands have 24v 5kwh batteries for less than a million?

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

You are confusing me small. so why the Junktek shunt. very impressive

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup


Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Why do you have two raspberry pi running solar assistant?

HeavenlyBang:


Tested on lowest speed. Lasted 11h3m. Voltage when it shut off was 9.7v.

LVD of 9.7v
HVD of 12.3v

Within spec for Li-ion, I believe. Experiment looks like a success. If this gives me 18 months of use, I'm a happy man.

Hold up, how did you do 11h on lowest speed? I was only able to manage 5h30 minutes on lowest speed.

Machiny:
Was a faouni today and it's just 615w they have. Both BI facial and MONO facial are same price. Which is preferable? Also a transformer base and non transformer base hybrid which is better?

go with mono facial. The bi-facial is only 615w when mounted correctly where it can get the reflected sunlight rays. If you mount on the roof you won’t get 615W. Just go with mono facial either ways.

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

Money good o. Jesus!

Dabss:
go with mono facial. The bi-facial is only 615w when mounted correctly where it can get the reflected sunlight rays. If you mount on the roof you won’t get 615W. Just go with mono facial either ways.

That's not really accurate . You get more than 615w if mounted on the ground in a way sun gets to the underside. You could get up to 720w or more from this 615w PV when ground mounted and appropriate conditions met.

https://nairaland.macsoftware.info/390522/solar-energy-complement-fta/1992#135070541

EPOMA:


You are confusing me small. so why the Junktek shunt. very impressive

he could physically check the remaining battery capacity without a phone app.

Infact the junctek would be the more reliable of all when the comes to battery monitoring.

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

This is beautiful. You did your homework on solar system and setup.

You need to contribute more to this thread chief, you're doing us the honors.

GloryJoyeux:
Final Setup

6kw Deye Offgrid
14kW s (3x605w JA Solar, 12x440w Jinko, 10x500w Cworth)
Victron 150/70 Charge controller
26.5kw Deriy Lithium and Cworth Lithium in Parallel with Busbar
Victron Smart shunt 300A
Junktek 100A shunt
Raspberry Pi 5 (running Solar Assistant)
Orange Pi 3 (running Solar Assistant)
Windows NUC (running Home Assistant)
Starlink for home internet
GLi.net router

Programmed Home Assistant using YAML for various automation, and created sensors from mqtt stream from SA. Influxdb for database. It also shows live individual power consumption of each devices in the house through smart plugs HA integration and custom auto-entites.

Since we going all in on renewable energy, gas hobs were replaced with ‘real’ induction cooker (max 3000w on highest settings with all 4 burners on, enamel cast iron pots).

Average daily load 30kW (Home Assistant programmed to do load management automatically, with pv forecast, so 3 AC, Induction hob, water heater, microwave , airfryer etc, every device is connected and will never exceed the 6000W rating of the inverter)

100 percent off grid, ie Island mode, no physical connection to grid. The wife is happy, I’m happy.

If you need any guidance on home assistant coding for your set up, you can private message me.

Glad to see you back posting, man.

CuteMaro:

Hold up, how did you do 11h on lowest speed? I was only able to manage 5h30 minutes on lowest speed.

Na God dey run am

BigDickProblems:


This is cool.
Meaning your fan’s power consumption on low speed is around 8.5W/h.

I would assume that on full speed, your battery can chest it for about 3.6hours. But I can’t be sure since I have no idea your fan’s original power rating.

But on a second thought, you could actually build something like this for yourself—even better than this though.

Yep, fan draws under 10w on lowest speed, and about 30w on highest speed. I think 3h is probably the most it can last on the max speed.

adibo:


I actually saved some money, dats why I just wanted to do the switch now before bills will make the money disappear

Well, see how much you can get for your batteries first before buying the lithium.

mctfopt:


Why do you have two raspberry pi running solar assistant?

Hi,

The deyri has jk bms, and the cworth has a different bms. So the first RPi with solar assistant is communicating with the JKbms of the deriy, the inverter and the victron smart shunt.

The second Orange Pi running SA is communicating with the cworth battery via CAN2.0, I couldn’t get cworth to communicate via rs485, it seems they use different communication protocols via rs485, but the CAN uses standard protocol.

EPOMA:


You are confusing me small. so why the Junktek shunt. very impressive

Hi,

Junktek comes with a display, so everyone in the house at a glance can see the battery percentage without needing to to the home assistant app or remote .

The victron smartshunt 300 didn’t come with a display, it’s the bmv verson that has a display, but the ui is lacking compared to junktek. Both victron smartshunts VE.Direct which is what’s crucial for communication.

fuckboys:
he could physically check the remaining battery capacity without a phone app.

Infact the junctek would be the more reliable of all when the comes to battery monitoring.

Hi,

You are spot on with the first statement.

However, the victron smartshunt is more reliable when compared to the junktek, here are some reasons why:

The junktek drifts by 5Ah when you go through multiple cycles without a full charge, and sometimes even when discharging from a single full charge cycle.

The junktek also lacks communication ie VE.Direct, rs485, CAN and even rs232.

The junktek version that has a history chart (called trends in the victron app), always crashes when using the history chart.

The worst disadvantage is, when its fully disconnected from the battery terminals and reconnected (lets say you are adding a battery or modifying a connection), the junktek resets and loose all the Ah accumulative calculations.

The junkek is better in some aspects however:

Firstly it shows time to charge to full charge (victron only shows time to full discharge)

Secondly, it’s way cheaper and if gotten to be simply a battery shunt with no other smart features, it does 99 percent of what the victron does.

It comes with a screen that has a lovely GUI.

Dabss:
go with mono facial. The bi-facial is only 615w when mounted correctly where it can get the reflected sunlight rays. If you mount on the roof you won’t get 615W. Just go with mono facial either ways.

Hi,

The rating of bi-facial is the expected STC rating, just like monofacials.

So if a monofacial is rated 615w its bi-facial counterpart is also rated 615w.

Bi-facials then have a ‘potential’ power gain on the rating.

For example, I have 6 x JA 605w bifacial s, they are rated to give me the 605w each, but I can get extra power of up to 653w each from bi-facial gains.

Here is my experience, I mounted it on a roof (regular angled roof), my max expected power at STC before bi-facial gains should be 6 x 605w =3,630 W. Then I can potentially get higher due to potential gain.

I actually get up to 3897w with them, so 649.5w each for 605w rated. That means I constantly get the bi-facial gain while mounted on roof.

The main thing is that your roof should be refective (etc aluminium) and from a white colour to like a light shade of gray etc, those are the roof colours that’s can reflect sunlight on the back of the s. Black roofs might not work because black and darker colours absorb light and do not easily reflect.

See the attached picture, the first bar on the chart, notice the Pmax 3897w.