NewStats: 3,263,671 , 8,180,975 topics. Date: Saturday, 07 June 2025 at 08:30 AM 4k1m1n

GeorgeD1:


zenus,
each sharp solar of 200w is about 180k and the morningstar ts-45 charge controller is about 60k.

for your 2.5kva inverter, assuming your using 2 batteries of 12v/200ah you will need a minimum 2pcs of these type of modules to enjoy.

See how solar cost back in the day. 200w for 180k in 2010

USD was about ₦120 then, so $1500 for a 200w . 2.2m in today's money!

Nteogwuija:


This is my setup. Although my solar is 1050w combined.

I have a small fridge that's 65w, it's on for 10hrs. I have a laptop of 45w. I unplug it once it's full. I have a 50inch TV. My wife uses the TV during the day.

I use it mostly during the weekend for Premiership and when there are Champions league games. I have a 12w router that's always on 24/7. I have 2 AC/DC fans of 30w combined that's on most of the time.

There are lighting points, some are on from 10pm to 6am for security.

Counter-intuitive. It's not like your laptop is drawing power to charge its battery when it's already full; all you're achieving by doing is putting more cycles on your laptop's battery.

This talk no too much on top 505?

JoeSef0:
How energy efficient is the powmr 100ah lithium battery compared to a regular 220ah tubular battery in of backup time and charging rate?
I'm asking cos it looks like they are sold for around same price bracket

1. The 220aH tubular has likely been mislabeled and isn't actually 220aH.
2. Even if it's actually 220aH, when you factor in DoD, usable energy is about the same as a 100aH lifepo4 battery
3. Lifepo4 handles 0.5c charge and discharge effortlessly, tubular is more around 0.2c
4. Lifepo4 will bounce back much better after being heavily discharged. Tubular won't.

There's no reason to buy a tubular battery in 2025. Even a cheap, Grade B lifepo4 battery is better than tubular.

Tucode:
Thanks for your response bro. But I honestly do not have the facility to do what you’ve asked. I’m not a professional technician, just a consumer. But the voltage according to the inverter is usually around 53.4V when charging cuts off.

Yeah, that's not good. 53.4v isn't anywhere 100% SoC.

Probably a balancing issue?

Dam5reey1:
Millions

Shuo, e don cheap like this?

Why companies come dey sell 5kwh for 1m+

Ferdiwar:
I Sha don't trust the internal charging system of rechargeable fans.

Yeah, that's the biggest issue here, but an external charger would make it significantly more expensive I suppose.

Ideally we should be able to find a way to make the internal charging system work with lifepo4 even if it means not getting the battery to float.

Make person build lifepo4 batteries for rechargeable fans na.

6.4v 7aH
12.8v 7aH

Cc: Valto, Isangjohnson

How much e go cost?

JJacko:
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Hmm. Correct me if I'm wrong but from this table, why won't I just get two 1.3Kwh 12v and in series ~2.6Kwh 24v @2x177k = 354,000
Instead of one 2.5Kwh 24v = 555,000

Different cell quality probably.

maklelemakukula:

Do you know any battery available in Nigeria that offers a 10 year warranty ?

SRNE offers ten years.

Felicity offers 7 years.

Growatt, Pylontech, Sako, SMS all offer five years, though we've had some issues with Sako on this thread.

I think even a five year warranty is a good indicator of quality as well.

Dam5reey1:


I no hold anyone abeg, we are only discussing market matters.. nothing personally.

Fair enough

maklelemakukula:

So none of the batteries we use, even growatt, is grade A ? Only Tesla ?

Not true. Plenty of manufacturers use Grade A cells. Pretty much any company offering a 10-year warranty on their battery is using Grade A cells.

Grade A cells aren't really expensive these days.

Dam5reey1:


15.5kwh is now 2M range.. from some chinese Seller and full capacity cells.

Make Valto no dey over promise, My oga like phrase like cheaper, cheapest in the market, better than and all. Hence people's expectations are high.

I quoting his when he said someone can get cells cheaper from him than wait for 3 months.

Fair enough. He's a business man, though, and will always tend to make statements like that. As I said, his products may not be the cheapest but they're reasonably priced and I don't see complaints about quality.

Let the man be. Eveybody has a niche to fill.

JJacko:
The major point of DIY is to reduce costs to match quality. We shouldn't be in the business of pushing pesin market to the point where it gives the chance to turn around and chop people head.
For someone that built his business on the back of this thread/forum, Valto is greedy, call a spade a spade. And never talk about build quality in the same sentence again.

Same Valto wey dey sell 15kwh battery for 2.2m. How many companies fit give you that price?

Does he have the cheapest prices on the market? No. Are his prices extortionate? No. They're right about fair. This is a bizzare rant really. If you have an issue with the quality of his products, then just say it instead of this rigmarole.

KA24DETT:


Thats not true.. 8mm copper is overkill. 4mm pure copper will serve fine. Unless its copper coated and not pure copper strands

seunlayi:


Please for Heaven's sake, recommend 1or 2

SRNE, Powmr, Felicity all sell MPPTs.

Nteogwuija:
Hi, guys. So I did a parallel connection of 3 350w s, with each having a maximum current of 13.6a. And I've noticed that whenever the sun is very high my DC breaker would go off and the system will stop charging. I'd have to turn it back on b4 it resumes charging.

The wire is a 4mm² coated wire.

Please, what do I have to change to rectify this?

1. You're running a 40A connection? What charge controller is that?

2. 40A DC requires ~8mm wire at least.

bkuranga:



Thank you once again.
So I revisited this, and I'm lost somewhere.


What capacity of hybrid inverter do you suggest?
I have searched, most that I have been seeing are 24V and not 12V.

Valto has 12v hybrids for sale.

waleayeni1:


Please is there any reason why no one is looking at my question? If i offend make una forgive. Please help.

Probably because most people here don't have hands-on experience with Schneider hardware.

Haykay2001:
Thanks chief..

Hello everyone, especially those with experience using Growatt and srne inverters!

I'd appreciate your input on this. Between Srne and Growatt inverters, which one handles high-power loads more efficiently?

Specifically, I'm looking for an inverter that can handle heating appliances like microwaves, electric stoves, water heaters, and irons without issues. Which brand is more rugged and reliable in this regard?

Thank you for sharing your experiences and expertise.

Either should be fine, they're both top tier brands imo, though Growatt is probably a bit better.

Haykay2001:
Hello chief, this your srne, what the capacity and do you use heating appliances with it pls....? Like water heater, electric stove, iron and the likes..

3.3 KW.

Most I've loaded it up with is about 2.5KW.

That's

- Water heater alone
- 1hp inverter AC + Microwave

My iron is about 1000w, easy peasy.

Interesting times.

SourYoghurt:
I called him a few minutes ago, he said he did it in parallel in his words: Na 48volts dem dey connect in series.

Like I said, most Nigerian technicians have no idea about the workings of the technologies they use. Na just wetin their oga teach them dem dey do.

SourYoghurt:
chaiiiiiii, I was here thinking my system has issues. Can anybody help me draw a sketch out for me so that I'd ask the next installer to follow the series format. If no be say I get phobia for up. I for just do bootcamp with Damreey company install by myself.

Just tell the next installer you want it in series. They'll know what to do. When it's done, check your MPPT input voltage, you should be getting about 135v during the day.

What part of this looks like an E63 to you?

Hoverbird:


But that won't produce enough current to charge the battery properly. the recommended charge current in the datasheet is 50A. One produces a max current of 13.4A.

50A there isn't input current, though. It's recommended charge current of the battery. Ergo 0.5c. Half of the 100aH capacity. They're effectively just telling you to limit charging current to 50A for battery longevity. Has nothing to do with current from PVs.

BigDickProblems:


Firstly, ensure to select the appropriate battery type on the controller (just read the manual and change the settings by pressing and holding). With the right settings, if this is as good as the MIV PWM controller, you will get the same results.

Secondly, since you are using a 2400wh battery, you need at least 8 pieces of that 300Watts connected in parallel-for effective charging (if possible you make it 10 since you don’t get enough sunlight duration according to your explanation). And please get a new controller especially if your current one is below 120Amps.

PS: Please I am not a solar professional, a lot of people here are more knowledgable and can provide better solution, so I stand to be corrected.

Good luck

No.

A 200aH battery wouldn't even take more than, like, 500-600w at a time. Plus you'd need a 150A+ charge controller to even utilize 2400w on a 12v setup.

Like someone already said, he just needs to add an extra 300w or two and use a better charge controller and everything will be fine. Preferably an 80A MPPT.

Battery is currently getting undercharged by solar.

CuteMaro:

This will definitely solve the problem but is it available in Nigeria? For that you will have to charge from the follow come port.

I wish someone can design a 10-20ah LiPO4 battery that can go into the battery compartment with ease and comes with a charger.

It's on AliExpress with free shipping.

There's a market opportunity here tbh. 6/12v battery packs that work plug and play with rechargeable fans.
Not sure if potential sales volume is worth the effort, though.

dollarnaira:


It can charge directly via a step down buck converter. Or better still buy those 20 or 23ah LifePO4 from Valto and run directly.

This scenerio is enough to stop comparing lead acid to LifePO4. Them no be mate .

You feel say my anti-lead acid campaign na with clear eye? I dey buy new car battery every year, don buy new fan battery, my guy wey do solar with tubular sef his batteries are on life at this point after just 18 months.

I would be a very happy man if I could eliminate lead acid from my life entirely

Something like this perhaps?

CuteMaro:
So guys I just found a very unique solution to this rechargeable fan batteries problem. I have changed my lead acid batteries twice atleast and unfortunately they don't last very long. As a result I have been searching for ways to get a lithium ion battery technology as a replacement.

An idea struck me, since I have 2 battery banks for Airtel Router, and they both have 12v cords, why not test to see if they can power the fan by plugging in to the 12v dc input of the fan.

Lo and behold I got my solution. Plugged it in directly and it's working. My battery is rated at 7.4v, 38wh, charges with a 5v, 2A charger. The previous battery were 2 4.5 ah, 6v batteries connected in series.
It powers my rechargeable fan quite well although I haven't tested for how long. It's significantly lighter due to Lithium ion technology and also rated to have a longer lifespan than lead acid batteries. What do you think?

Mind you dropping to 7.4v means the fan speed dropped a bit but I can always use the second speed option which is super sufficient. I have no prior knowledge of these things, is there a downside to it?

dollarnaira:


It all started with just small curiosity.
Gradually you hit renewable energy.
Get few pieces of lithium ion cells( with small guide) along with buck converter and run it directly as a replacement for lead acid.

Having the same Rechargeable fan issue. A Qasa fan with 12v 7aH lead acid battery. Battery that came with the fan lasted for about nine months and packed up. Bought a replacement from Qasa's Jumia store which lasted for just two months effectively and is already on its way out.

What's a cost-effective lithium alternative, house? Especially one the fan would be able to charge directly? Is that even possible?

dollarnaira:


He needs both to charge the battery.

Explain, boss.

Nteogwuija:
Good evening, guys.

So I have a 12v 1.5kva setup(1.5kva Sukam inverter, 220ah tubular battery, 40amp mmpt CC, and 700w ).

The tubular battery if fully charged can't power my 50inch TV for 6hrs, considering that one is suppose to use about 50 to 60% of ba3 and then the safety on the inverter turns off the system.

I need an improved backup system still on 12v, and I'm considering selling the 220ah ba3 and getting a lifepo4.

My questions are;

Can I use my current Sukam 1.5kva inverter to charge a lifepo4 ba3?

Secondly, what capacity of lifepo4 would be a proper and highly improved replacement for the 12v 220ah tabular?

And lastly, would I be needing to add to my 700w solar should I get a lifepo4 ba3?

Thanks for your responses in advance.

Your charge controller is what does the charging, not the inverter.

Check the manual of your 40A MPPT to see if it has lithium charging and/or editable charging parameters.

2. Considering DoD, a 100aH battery would be about the same as your 220aH. Slightly worse in capacity but you make it for it with higher charge and discharge rates. Assuming your TV is the only load you have, a 100aH lithium battery should last for about 8 hours.

3. Keep your 700w . I don't see much economic value in buying another 700w for a small setup like that, and buying a smaller to add would just mean you leave a lot of power on the table.

dollarnaira:


Your last statement is somehow degrading.
Why not create your thread to ?

Person wey dey ment. Selling a scam device that he's unable to defend then going "If this advert is not meant for you or you feel this is not a kind of appliance that you need, kindly ignore this post."

It's not that the appliance isn't for me. The issue is that it's a scam.

Charley2020:
Hi guys, I'm new to this and have a few questions please:

1. What happens when a solar battery charges fully? Do the s power your load directly or do they keep drawing power from your battery while the s replace the energy used from the batteries in real time?

2. How do you calculate the number of solar s you'll need to power your load during the day and still have a fully charged battery by sundown?

3. How much would it cost to build a solar system with a lithium battery that can power a few bulbs, a gaming laptop (230 watts), a Skyrun 70-liter fridge, and a standing/ceiling fan?

Thanks in advance.

1. Any decent hybrid inverter has an option to prioritize load. Ergo, power from sun goes to load first, then the remainder goes into the battery. When the battery is full, it just takes what it needs to power your load while sending a couple of watts into the battery.

2. Empirical data indicates solar setups, all things being equal (properly wired, s set to maximize output) will make around 3-4x their rating daily. Ergo, if you have a 2000w pv setup, you can expect to make around 7kwh on the average day. Use those numbers, work backwards, and you'll see how much wattage you need in a day.

3. If those are the only equipment you have, you're dealing with about 400w of load.
For 24-hours power supply, assuming you're not gaming at night, you're going to require

A 2.56kwh lithium battery
1500w of s
An inverter with a ~60a mppt

Maybe around 1.5m budget. That should just about take you off-grid.

AinsSama:

I don't think it includes PV

Think he's talking about MPPT pv input capacity.

burnerr:
Hello house, I want to get a setup was thinking of a 5kw growatt inverter. I know lithium is good, but the cost is
Would 4 12v 200A gel batteries be a good alternative or not?
Thanks in advance.

Lithium is same price as tubular, what's the issue?