I have very little context so pardon me. I am responding to this purely on the face of the comment. I have been a solar now for over 8 years. My first system was a 1.2kw (inverter) paired with a 480w solar and 2 Tubular batteries. That system paired with the grid was able to power basic house loads including a 130L chest freezer. The freezer ran for 4 hours a day.
I later upgraded the inverter to 2.4kw (Axpert inverter) and pared it with 1.8kw solar (and same Tubular battery as before) and ran the house completely off-grid from this setup for over 2 years (no NEPA setup)
In all I ran a 24v system from 2016 - 2022 and had most of my basic loads like fridge, freezer, occasional microwave, occasional ironing etc.
Of cause I did not run all the powerful loads all at ones but my point is, design design design. System design is 80% of the work on solar.
Key is performing a proper energy audit. Deg your system around the result of your energy audit. I used 2 tubular batteries, 2.4kw inverter and 1.8kw solar s to power a 2 bedroom apartment completely off-grid and I lived quite comfortably (as comfortable as you can live without AC LOL)
Even now with a much upgraded system, you can check my daily usage averages at about 1.5kw (when I have 1 AC a freezer, fridge, fan, lots of computers - running in my home lab including a 64 Terabyte NAS with 64g ram and 8 core AMD Ryzen) all of this is running on less than 2kw and when AC is off house load drops to less than 1kw. My VRM numbers is there for anyone to see https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/453590/share/df9180a7
People don't use as much power as they think. It is fine and very possible to use a lean prudent, low power system you just have to have the whole system well designed from load to generation to storage.
And just like that, I'm back to stalking Bigrovar. Sir, I need to pay you tribute (I hope you get to see this). I patterned my system after your 2nd system (3kw inverter, 1.8kw modules and 4kwh batteries {lithium}, even the fangpusun 150v/70a controller), and I have lived off grid and like a princess since 2020. My solar journey began in 2016. In fact, my first inverter, a 12v sukam was purchased in I think 2017 because you spoke highly of it. I stalked your stats on one of the sites you posted it for months (pvoutput.org I am not sure), while encouraging myself that when my s are complete, I will be able to generate what Bigrovar is generating.
Now you have posted your victron stats, phase 2 of the stalking begins. Maybe this is a sign from God that I should victron. Just know your system encouraged someone. Thank you.
Sir, kindly share what your current system is, modules, batteries, inverter and all.
Good day. Please can someone help me with the ECU part number for this VIN: KMHCM419U330469. Also, is it possible to tell if the ECU has been changed previously? Thanks for your help.
I agree and I suspect that in the next few years we will see the same thing in Nigeria. Maybe not factories but Office Buildings, Shopping Malls, Hospitals, Schools, and even multi-tenant residential buildings. The cost of solar power production without storage is less than N20 per KWh and people are going to be thinking especially for businesses that operate during the day why not put solar s on the roof and sell them electricity especially when DISCOs are charging N50 per Kwh.
How did you arrive at 20naira per Kwh for production without storage? I want to understand how that calculation is done. it seems too cheap to be true. what would then be the cost per Kwh with storage?
JUO:
100ah/12v lithium battery available
Maximum charge current 50A
Maximum discharge current 50A
Maximum charge voltage 14.8v
low voltage disconnect 10v
over 3000 on cycle at 80% DOD
Weight 13kg
Cell: 32650
Price 170k
Can it be connected in series(for 24v) or is there a 24v version? There seems to be a tiny lcd screen on the battery, what does that display?
bigrovar:
People hide under anonymity to post BS. Just the way the Internet is. Whatever you say or do online is written in ink and even though you are anonymous.. Your profile and online identity will still reflect on you. Everything you do or say have consequences.
please is there a way to get this dude(truthbetold) banned from the thread?
dear solasola and truthbetold, what the both of you said is unfair. never has anyone on this forum with a large array questioned or insulted anyone's small array/system. these older guys are usually very willing to help others. if you haven't seen houses that need such systems, I have, but still, that is not sufficient reason to basically insult their choice of an electricity system. please do not drive these men away from this thread with your bad attitude. they try out new innovation with their system which gives us the courage to try it out on our smaller systems. And please, truthbetold, stop with the foul language, it makes you look bad
funken:
Gurus, I have a Fangpusun 150/70 with a 48v 200ah Ritar AGM battery bank (8 batteries), 9 250w solar s in 3s3p configuration and I am experiencing it going into float prematurely - hence it does not fully charge the batteries. If I am lucky it charges it up to 53.7v I have read online that this is a problem with the algorithm as it senses the voltage at sun up and uses it to calculate how long absorption time will be.
Absorption voltage currently set to 56v and float is 55.4v.
Is there a workaround that one can adopt? I see they have resolved this in the Victron v1.42 firmware but as we are stuck with the v1.16 what can one do?
funken:
Gurus, I have a Fangpusun 150/70 with a 48v 200ah Ritar AGM battery bank (8 batteries), 9 250w solar s in 3s3p configuration and I am experiencing it going into float prematurely - hence it does not fully charge the batteries. If I am lucky it charges it up to 53.7v I have read online that this is a problem with the algorithm as it senses the voltage at sun up and uses it to calculate how long absorption time will be.
Absorption voltage currently set to 56v and float is 55.4v.
Is there a workaround that one can adopt? I see they have resolved this in the Victron v1.42 firmware but as we are stuck with the v1.16 what can one do?
cc @earthrealm
@GeorgeD1
@SolnergyPower
@NiyiOmoIyunade
@bigrovar
@ zeestone99
@pranil
I am confused. If it only gets to 53.7v, that's less than your absorb or float values. Could it be the weather? Was it charging properly in the dry season? Does it ever go into float? How does it go into float at less than the float voltage? Please explain
I have read that doing that won't help much based on my roof position (the stuff is currently facing the East)
Regards
could a temporary cheap option be; moving your s to the north or south side of your roof? that way the sun moves horizontally across it from East to West. That may help before your set up the standalone mount.
wait oh, 450watts iron? please I want, where did you get it? I have been window shopping for low watt iron and the least I have seen is 800w. is it a travel iron or regular sized iron
By the way since you seem to be using same series with mine, how is performance of yours? What's your setup like?
I haven't gotten the inverter. I'm just asking questions to see if it fits my needs. I hope to continue with the 24v setup I currently have. 1500va inverter, 900watts pv. thanks for your reply
ojeysky:
At 7:53 am already over 120vdc, yet no single wattage/current has been received. The solar icon just keeps blinking I wonder if it's normal and am wondering whether this means I will need 6 s.
Still waiting for sunlight to come better reveal itself.
Chei! and I was hoping to be able to use 4s. I have to budget for the extra 2. I still hope a solution can be found. sorry for the stress
Thanks a lot for the education, it's really useful. My setup is quite small, for now it's 4 s (250w each) to be in series. I have attached the spec of my hybrid controller.
I already have an SPD so from your explanation above, it means that diagrammatically, the wire from PV will look something like below:
PV>>>SPD>>>DC breaker>>>CC
What DC circuit breaker rating do you recommend? It's a 24V system.
Thanks again.
I'm curious to see if your 4 s connected in series will work flawlessly. though the manufacturer says mppt range is from 120vdc, the manual still states a minimum 6 s in series (confuses me). a on this forum https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=5830&sid=f41c966980dd3208181a8cd01c33b841&start=25. had difficulty with his unit (running it with 5 modules in series, although without batteries). he solved his problem by adding a sixth module (don't know if the problem arose because he was operating without batteries). please keep us posted when you install your system.
is ur setup/inverter 12v or 24v, whats ur avg daily harvest?, if 24v, that may be part of your problem.
2ndly whats the size of your cables, cc to batt bank and to cc
i have a mini system 1 x 12v 200ah, 250w and i harvest 1kwh avg daily, though max instantenous i have seen is 140w, probablly cos the load is small, and battery doesnt get depeleted much
it is a 24v system and the harvest is about 0.45- 0.55kwh daily. I have 2x300w connected in series to another controller (but mounted in an identical position) and that gives about 200- 400w, sometimes 500w briefly instantaneous. hence my concern
dear house, I have a 310w solar that only outputs about 71w-85w instantaneous at full midday sun (connected to epever 40a mppt, batteries not fully charged, so it's not a float issue). what could possibly be wrong and how do I rectify the problem? (I have no electrical background). the voltage on the mppt is between 27-32v, it's just the amps that is quite small (I think it is behaving like a 120w module).should I ask someone to open the junction box? what should the person check for?
I am completely off grid as my site is yet unserved by the national grid. I have a small living room set-up, DIYed that have served well and is two years old this December.
• Two 150 watts mono s in 2p config.
• 20Amp PWM CC
• 1000watts BTS PSW inverter.
• 12volt 100 amps AGM battery
This set-up is replicated in each bedroom of the house and the kitchen. The set-ups depending on the location in the house, powers a TV, decoder, solar rechargeable standing fan, USB charging outlets. Along with a 22" TV, the kitchen set-up also powers a 60 watt fridge (230 watts start up current @ 230VAC) and with the exception of the kitchen set-up, every other similar set-up in the house rarely gets discharged below 12 volts (occasionally 11.9volts) by 12 midnight when everyone must have hit their beds.
The highest instantaneous peak current ever recorded is 6amps and a harvest of 210kwh (actually sub-200kwh on most sunny days). Considering the fact that each 150watts rated at 8.7amps should output at least 15amps instantaneous in a 2p config, isn't the 6 amps and below always recorded an abysmally low performance?
I recently got a give away deal of a MakeSkyBlue MPPT (20amps, 120volts) and thought of swapping this for the PWM CC in the living room. What re-arrangement/mods will you recommend for the solar s to use with the MPPT CC? Also, I never used a circuit breaker in any of the set-ups, so can I get away with not using a CB with the new MPPT controller? If no, will a 20amps DC CB be appropriate? After installing the new CC, will an 200amps AGM be a worthy investment?
What independent set-up will you recommend for an inverter AC of 1 horse power? I may have to alternate the set-up with a washing machine as needed (maybe twice weekly), so put that in mind also.
I plan to also revive the use of a sliding gate opener hitherto decommissioned since I can't be running the generator all day to power a gate opener that is used intermittently few moments of the day. A wattmeter showed the watt rating of 230 watts @ 240VAC. I tested it with a 12volt 1000watt MSW inverter i have lying around (actually I have two of it lying unused) connected with a 100amps AGM and it worked well. I also have a redundant 600 watts PSW that keeps sounding the alarm at any power draw above 180 watts, so it may not fit well into the gate opener scenario. Considering the high wattage of the sliding gate opener, would you recommend I use a 24volt inverter set-up instead (using two 30amps or 50amps AGM in series)? Will I likely get away with finally using the gate opener with the MSW inverter? The set-up powering the gate opener may eventually be recruited to power an electric fence unit overnight (if possible), but that's under maybe, also keep that in mind.
Please forgive my long epistle. I want to be as explicit as possible. I beseech you to be kind enough to read thru. Thank you Chiefs.
I think you should use the makeskyblue controller on the setup that is used more (since it would theoretically harvest more power). since it is a 20amp controller, at 12v you are looking at 240w in s ( each of your setup has 300w of s, you would simply change the two s to series connection). if you want to go up to a higher voltage setup, you would need to get a new inverter and cables to connect your batteries in series and mc4 connectors. I think you should use it on one of your setup, watch it's performance and then decide if you want to go to a higher voltage. (if it isn't broken, why bother fixing it? you said your systems have served you well)
dear house, please consider and correct me if I am wrong. can a bmv be used to turn off an inverter when battery voltage reached a certain low point by wiring it with a relay to the inverter switch? ( I have always assumed that's partly is what the relay function is. just like that opposite of what this position did https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PzL-ZjKxds ). is it not wiser to switch off the inverter rather than disconnect the batteries when they get to a set low voltage point? I also noticed that many charge controllers (midnite, flexmax, Schneider) have an auxillary output, can this also be used to achieve this? Steve Robertson uses this function to turn on his DC water heater https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnwH10lCfpw (skip to 3min 30sec) and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEMIz1TGQn8 (skip to 3:55). if this can be done, please explain how it should be connected. PS: I have next to zero knowledge about electricity.
[quote author=kiekie1 post=68125560][/quote]
how much is the peak consumption of the fridge and does the washing machine use up to 340w? I once measured an LG side loader washing machine and it didn't use up to 150w during spin cycle but that model is no more in the market. thanks for sharing
The unit I got is the 225L single door. It uses about 50w peek power but that varies it settles to around 40w. The down side is it defrosts very fast... but the up side is that it can conveniently be left to run longer period without damaging your battery.
50w peak power! wow. my idiot Chinese freezer consumes almost three times that! thanks a lot
please could anyone here who owns an inverter refrigerator (i know both bigrovar and kiekie have one) please share with us it's consumption in of watts and an actual picture of the appliance. also, I want to get a washing machine, if anyone has an energy efficient model, please share too (pic and stats). thanks in advance