NewStats: 3,265,089 , 8,185,642 topics. Date: Friday, 13 June 2025 at 12:38 PM 61n4t

jceesquare:

At this point remote diagnosis would be impossible. Your brake system (with ABS delete) is not rocket science for it to be difficult to diagnose and fix.
I'd suggest you look for a competent mechanic in Abuja to help with it.

I have an observation. I jacked the other tyre up and the tyre rotate freely even with two fingers. But the driver side tyre is stocked once I accelerated and press the break. And switch off the car, with the car jacked up u CAN'Trotate the tyre. Should be locked up caliber by clogged brake Hose. I will visit a mechanic tomorrow to check.

honsule:


I have an observation. I jacked the other tyre up and the tyre rotate freely even with two fingers. But the driver side tyre is stocked once I accelerated and press the break. And switch off the car, with the car jacked up u CAN'Trotate the tyre. Should be locked up caliber by clogged brake Hose. I will visit a mechanic tomorrow to check.

Thought you said you've changed everything there is to change and you were sure they fixed them well?
If the tyre is not rotating, then your calliper is binding.
Take it for physical inspection as planned.

jceesquare:

Thought you said you've changed everything there is to change and you were sure they fixed them well?
If the tyre is not rotating, then your calliper is binding.
Take it for physical inspection as planned.

will do that tomorrow. thanks. i haven't change the flex hose

I have a challenge with my RX300 Lexus, it is not firing well on reverse. The mechanic advised that I change the ATF but it didn't improve. Please assist

Blitzeee:
I have a challenge with my RX300 Lexus, it is not firing well on reverse. The mechanic advised that I change the ATF but it didn't improve. Please assist

Scan scan scan

U have a rear seal leakage.

Blitzeee:
I have a challenge with my RX300 Lexus, it is not firing well on reverse. The mechanic advised that I change the ATF but it didn't improve. Please assist

vivalavida:

Scan scan scan

I will do that, thanks for the advice

Angrigowt:
U have a rear seal leakage.

How can I resolve that?

Gear needs to come down. Go under where u have the middle box or whe u have the middle console/gear mount connect n enginw/torgue converter...Look underneath.u will see oil spilage. Check first

Blitzeee:


How can I resolve that?

2006 civic started having high rpm at idle, around 1400 rpm. I did a throttle body clean and relearn and it came down to 1,100.

My car still consumes fuel. I did a scan and it shows P0128, coolant temperature issues and P0507 idle control system issues.

I'm not sure the parts to change. Most mechanics are clueless and just guessing.

Angrigowt:
U have a rear seal leakage.

Stop this.

Blitzeee:


How can I resolve that?

Please scan your transmission.

zed7:
2006 civic started having high rpm at idle, around 1400 rpm. I did a throttle body clean and relearn and it came down to 1,100.

My car still consumes fuel. I did a scan and it shows P0128, coolant temperature issues and P0507 idle control system issues.

I'm not sure the parts to change. Most mechanics are clueless and just guessing.

For your 1st code, your cars fan is running continuously when ignition is on and your thermostat is stuck open or has been removed. Replace thermostat and return fan to factory settings and that would be sorted out.
For the second code, drive the car for a while and observe if the idle will drop further downward while car is idling in P or N.

jceesquare:

For your 1st code, your cars fan is running continuously when ignition is on and your thermostat is stuck open or has been removed. Replace thermostat and return fan to factory settings and that would be sorted out.
For the second code, drive the car for a while and observe if the idle will drop further downward while car is idling in P or N.

Thanks for your reply, however, fan works fine. Comes on only when engine is hot. The only thing is that ac compressor doesn't go off when engine is hot. It works continuously.

The idle sometimes gets to 1000 when the car has been driven for a while but the issue is the fuel consumption is really high. Half tank for 120km, though the car just moves within an estate, very short distances.

zed7:


Thanks for your reply, however, fan works fine. Comes on only when engine is hot. The only thing is that ac compressor doesn't go off when engine is hot. It works continuously.

The idle sometimes gets to 1000 when the car has been driven for a while but the issue is the fuel consumption is really high. Half tank for 120km, though the car just moves within an estate, very short distances.

With a thermostat stuck open/ or not present coupled with very short trips, you don't expect to see good mpg.

Angrigowt:
U have a rear seal leakage.

Please what transmission oil would you recommend for 06 Sienna? I will be sorting out Solenoid D code in the transmission and that will require transmission oil change.

God bless you for what you do. Please I need a clarification, my mechanic removed the thermostat in my car ( pontiac vibe 2004). He said we don't need it. Is it right? Secondly how can i check if the car airbag are intact. Also the temperature gets to the middle on the dash board about 5mins into driving.

jceesquare:

With a thermostat stuck open/ or not present coupled with very short trips, you don't expect to see good mpg.

Mommajojem:
God bless you for what you do. Please I need a clarification, my mechanic removed the thermostat in my car ( pontiac vibe 2004). He said we don't need it. Is it right? Secondly how can i check if the car airbag are intact. Also the temperature gets to the middle on the dash board about 5mins into driving.

Amen.
1. That's not true. If it's faulty you should replace.
2. A comprehensive scan should pick up an airbag code if there's an issue with it.
3. If your fan has not been tampered with, it's normal. But since your mechanic has removed the thermostat, I believe they must have tampered with the fan to make it run always. If that's the case then there's a problem somewhere.

Thank you sir.The temperature issue was like that before removing the thermostat. The thermostat wasnt faulty. He said it would make the car to overheat when on a long travel.

jceesquare:

Amen.
1. That's not true. If it's faulty you should replace.
2. A comprehensive scan should pick up an airbag code if there's an issue with it.
3. If your fan has not been tampered with, it's normal. But since your mechanic has removed the thermostat, I believe they must have tampered with the fan to make it run always. If that's the case then there's a problem somewhere.

Mommajojem:
Thank you sir.The temperature issue was like that before removing the thermostat. The thermostat wasnt faulty. He said it would make the car to overheat when on a long travel.

Change your mechanic

Good evening guys,

Please I need help concerning how to resolve my issue.

I drive a 2007 Toyota corolla.

Just today, I noticed that the temperature went slightly above the middle mark. So I stopped, opened the bonnet and observed that the coolant reservoir was overflowing with boiling coolant.

I had to put off the AC. And this made the overflowing coolant to recede. And temperature needle back to normal.

I met a roadside mech. Who bled the radiator this evening and said it would fix it. But I doubt that would fix the issue.

I don't like having overheating issues.

Please I would appreciate informed opinions on what could be causing the water in my reservoir to be boiling slightly and overflowing while the temperature needle rises a bit above normal.

Just to add, my fan is blowing well.

Grupo:
Good evening guys,

Please I need help concerning how to resolve my issue.

I drive a 2007 Toyota corolla.

Just today, I noticed that the temperature went slightly above the middle mark. So I stopped, opened the bonnet and observed that the coolant reservoir was overflowing with boiling coolant.

I had to put off the AC. And this made the overflowing coolant to recede. And temperature needle back to normal.

I met a roadside mech. Who bled the radiator this evening and said it would fix it. But I doubt that would fix the issue.

I don't like having overheating issues.

Please I would appreciate informed opinions on what could be causing the water in my reservoir to be boiling slightly and overflowing while the temperature needle rises a bit above normal.

Just to add, my fan is blowing well.

Physical inspection and pressure testing your cooling system by a competent hand would be your best bet.
So many factors could be responsible for it.

jceesquare:

Physical inspection and pressure testing your cooling system by a competent hand would be your best bet.
So many factors could be responsible for it.

I live in a somewhat remote area. The mechs here don't know what is pressure testing of cooling system.

The mechanic has already suggested I should remove my thermostat which I have rejected already.

Grupo:


I live in a somewhat remote area. The mechs here don't know what is pressure testing of cooling system.

The mechanic has already suggested I should remove my thermostat which I have rejected already.

Since you said your fans are working fine, start with the simplest things you can see.
1. Check the radiator cover, if the rubbers are cracked and torn, change it.
2. If you find rusty residue any where in your cooling line, then know you have leaks from there.
3. Check the radiator fins. If clogged that light cannot penetrate through, then it's bad and needs replacement.

jceesquare:

Since you said your fans are working fine, start with the simplest things you can see.
1. Check the radiator cover, if the rubbers are cracked and torn, change it.
2. If you find rusty residue any where in your cooling line, then know you have leaks from there.
3. Check the radiator fins. If clogged that light cannot penetrate through, then it's bad and needs replacement.

Thanks. I'll start by inspecting the cap tomorrow.

Good morning house,
I took my Honda CRV car to VIO Inspection Center yesterday for inspection and below are the faults detected.

Defects Detected
1. Excessive Service Brake Imbalance Rear Axle
2. Service Brake Not Working (Rear Left)

Please how do I interpret the above faults?
Thank you.

Cc:
@ GAZZUZZ, @Kingreign, @Nurey

What I discovered yesterday. Might help with solving fuel economy.

When I changes the solenoid yesterday. My mechanic wanted to test drive it and he didn’t put back the air filter hose. When i told him to install back the filter box and hose he said the car will work like that incase the solenoid didn’t work well so he doesn’t have to lose them again.

Oboy this car drink my fuel when we test drive it in that state. The way my fuel gauge went down was shocking.

So I was just wondering if there is further restrictions on the air filter to starve the engine a bit of some air. Would the fuel economy improve further?

Bullfallo:
What I discovered yesterday. Might help with solving fuel economy.

When I changes the solenoid yesterday. My mechanic wanted to test drive it and he didn’t put back the air filter hose. When i told him to install back the filter box and hose he said the car will work like that incase the solenoid didn’t work well si he doesn’t have to lose it again.

Oboy this car drink my fuel when we test drink it in that state. They way my fuel gauge when down was shocking.

So I was just wondering if there is further restrictions on the air filter to starve the engine a bit of some air. Would the fuel economy improve further?

No. You'll starve the car or air. More like running full speed with nose mask on and forced to breath through your nose.

jceesquare:

No. You'll starve the car or air. More like running full speed with nose mask on and forced to breath through your nose.

i know but you know that when the air is lean the car will use less fuel.

The way more air pump into the engine the car injected more fuel. If there is less air then there will also be less fuel

Bullfallo:
i know but you know that when the air is lean the car will use less fuel.

The way more air pump into the engine the car injected more fuel. If there is less air then there will also be less fuel

The reverse is the case.
When you have lesser air going into the car, the ECU compensates for the distorted air to fuel ratio and pumps in more fuel to compensate for it. So if you restrict the flow, your car will burn more fuel and not save it. Just like the scenery I painted earlier, you'll struggle running with nose mask on and forced to breath through your nose only.
You'll have lean mixture when you have more air and less fuel.

Hello folks, good morning. Please can someone recommend a very good auto-mechanic for setting of camber, caster and toe for Lexus GS350? The right rear leg is visibly not well aligned and car vibrates when speed/acceleration increases.

Location: Ikeja / Ogudu, Lagos


Cc: GAZZUZZ, Kingreign, Nurey

jceesquare:

Amen.
1. That's not true. If it's faulty you should replace.
2. A comprehensive scan should pick up an airbag code if there's an issue with it.
3. If your fan has not been tampered with, it's normal. But since your mechanic has removed the thermostat, I believe they must have tampered with the fan to make it run always. If that's the case then there's a problem somewhere.

Most mechanics will connect the fan direct without removing the thermostat,so that's definitely what happened which is the reason why the temperature gets to the middle within five minutes of driving.